PAMPLONA

THE CITADEL

Locality: Pamplona
Address: Avenida Avda. del Ejército
Zone: The Pamplona Basin

The Citadel, the main architectural focal point in the city of Pamplona, is considered the best example of military architecture from the Spanish Renaissance and one of the most outstanding defensive fortifications to have been designed in Europe. Together with the Vuelta del Castillo, the park that surrounds it, they represent the green ?lungs’ through which the city breathes, with a combined surface area of 280,000 square metres. Jogging and other sports are therefore common at any time of day.

The Citadel came into being to protect the city from its enemies following an order by King Philip II in 1571 to start construction work in order to take a stand against the constant incursions of the French army.

Its original structure took the form of a regular pentagon, with five bastions in its corners, but the construction of the “Primer Ensanche” (first extension) of the city necessitated the demolition of two of them. In its interior, other fortifications and buildings are nowadays used as public places for leisure and culture activities.

Entry to the citadel is from the Avenida del Ejército or the Vuelta del Castillo, and only on foot, because no other mode of transport is permitted in this area. The Italian military engineer, Giacomo Pelearo (also known as “el Fratín”), was the architect of this sophisticated defence system.

It was fashionable at the time and similar to the one that was already in existence in the Belgian city of Antwerp. In the 18th century the area was surrounded by a system of counterguards, covered passages, crescents and steep slopes. It was later turned into a prison, and its cells received the presence of such distinguished figures as the minister Urquijo or the Count of Floridablanca.

This fortification was taken only once in its history, in 1808, and it was not even necessary for the French army to fire a single shot. Taking advantage of a heavy snowfall, the enemy managed to take the Citadel in the wake of the confusion caused by the two sides throwing snowballs at each other.

Let us, however, leave the past behind. In 1964 the army handed over the Ciudadela to Pamplona City Council, which set about its restoration to turn it into the place that is now enjoyed every day by thousands of locals and tourists. Every night of the Sanfermines fiesta the walls of the Ciudadela bear silent witness to spectacular firework displays, in the noisiest event of the world-famous festivity.

There are five gates to access the inner precinct. The busiest of these are the Puerta del Socorro, which is accessed from the Vuelta del Castillo and crosses the moat over a bridge that in its day was a drawbridge, and the main entrance in the Avenida del Ejército, in which its Renaissance sobriety stands out. If you enter through the main entrance you arrive at the guardhouse, a building that today is used for municipal offices.

Pavilions, moats, bastions, ravelins and fortification banks decorate the walled precinct within an attractive public park, where there is no lack of paths. There is a small central square with a fountain, thirty different species of trees, various sculptures (by Jorge Oteiza, Néstor Basterretxea, Vicente Larrea and Alberto Eslava, among others) and a children’s playground. The citadel is only open during the day and all types of vehicles are prohibited, including bicycles.

Moreover, the park combines recreational and cultural uses, since the conservation and renovation of the old military buildings have enabled it to be used today as a centre for exhibitions and cultural displays, mainly of contemporary art. These usually take place in the Polvorín (literally, ?explosives magazine’) and the Pabellón de Mixtos, which are the oldest, and the Sala de Armas, together with the Horno (oven) from the late 18th century.

The area is completed with a Basque pelota court, which can be used free of charge by the public. This is located on the northern side in the moat area, as are two wind roses.

The Park of the Citadel is open every day from Monday to Saturday between 7.30am and 9.30pm and on Sundays and public holidays from 9.00am until 9.30pm. The exhibitions are open on weekdays in the evening and on weekends in the morning. Access to the moats is available at any time but walking there after dark is not recommended.

ARGA RIVER PARK

Locality: Pamplona
Address: Paseo por el río Arga
Zone: The Pamplona Basin

The river that flows through Pamplona is called the Arga. It also has a long and winding river walk, the Parque Fluvial, which meanders along about 12 kilometres. The million square metres it covers make it the first and largest green space in the city. A succession of historical bridges, dams, mills, bridges, gardens, parks, jetties, picnic areas, fishing points, farms, market gardens, fields with horses and cows, fountains, a frontón (Basque pelota court) and even an Environmental Education Museum can be found along this attractive and easily accessible walk, the symbiosis of water and vegetation. Sometimes the river gets close to the city and on other occasions it ?hides’ from it, passing through areas where fishermen cast their rods and where canoeists or cyclists enjoy their sports to idyllic ‘oases of peace’; it either flows wide and slowly or foams up when it runs over dams or through narrower sections … The Arga flows round Pamplona and also crosses the city. If you are interested in following its course, there is a lot to discover. The Arga River Park covers a long distance along the banks of the river Arga. It enters the city of Pamplona through the market gardens of La Magdalena, whose produce is of excellent quality and taste. It then crosses the neighbourhood of La Rochapea and leaves the city, after getting close to the centre, through the suburb of San Jorge. It also runs along the banks of many places in the Pamplona Basin such as Burlada, Villava, Arre, Barañáin or Zizur Mayor.

This attractive river walk is the result of a decade’s work, begun in the 1990s, on the environmental recovery of the river bank, with considerable financial support from the European Union. The project has enabled the recovery of the river bed and the banks of the river and the creation of a long, uninterrupted nature route that can be enjoyed on foot or by bicycle. Along the way there are new parks, footbridges over the rivers, jetties and renovated mills. Ash, willow, alder, lime trees or sloe bushes make up the local flora alongside a fauna of tortoises, fish and ducks, among others.

In Pamplona, the route is divided into four sections from east to west: Magdalena, Aranzadi, Rochapea and San Jorge. Each one has attractions for sportsmen, fishing enthusiasts, strollers, families, or courting couples…

In the meander of La Magdalena there are market gardens and farms. There is also a picturesque dam at the ‘Mill of Caparroso’ and the bridge of La Magdalena, which leads to the Park of Tejería. At the end of this section you will find the first of the nine bridges along the route (also called ‘La Magdalena’), a beautiful mediaeval bridge that is crossed by pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela.

The Aranzadi section is further away from the city walls and starts at the ‘Mill of Ciganda’, a spot often painted by local artists. In calle Errotazar is the Environmental Education Museum and, a little further on, the Bridge of San Pedro, the oldest in the city. Its origins go back to the Roman period.

The Rochapea section approaches the Old Part of the city, a busy shopping and leisure area, with the towers of the Cathedral in the background. There are many bridges over the river, some of them modern: el Vergel, La Rochapea (also known as ‘Curtidores’), Oblatas, Santa Engracia and Cuatro Vientos.

In the San Jorge section the river walk passes a frontón, a fountain, a dam, a bridge and a mill. The parks of San Jorge and Biurdana flank the river’s course. Up the hill is the neighbourhood of San Juan, and a little further on, the Bridge of Miluce marks the north-western boundary of the city. From there on, the Arga flows on through a tree-lined landscape that it is tranquil and silent. Pamplona has now been left behind.

HALF-MOON PARK

Locality: Pamplona
Address: Paraje Parque de la Media Luna
Zone: The Pamplona Basin

Around the city centre of Pamplona, in the Segundo Ensanche and at the southern end of the city walls, is the Parque de la Media Luna (literally, “half-moon park”), one of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city. It owes its name to its design in the form of a waning moon. A leafy and romantic place, the park has excellent views from its elevated position over the river Arga and the hills beyond. It has a pond with goldfish, a roller skating rink and a wide variety of tree species, including a beautiful giant sequoia. It is used for open-air concerts, particularly jazz in June. In a corner of the park there is a monument to Pablo Sarasate, the famous violinist from Pamplona. At the heart of this green haven is a café with a large terrace that is a particularly popular meeting place during the long and warm summer nights. Media Luna park was built in 1935 by Víctor Eúsa, one of the major Navarrese architects of the 20th century. Covering a surface area of 67,000 square metres, it is located at the southern end of the old city walls between the Baluarte de San Bartolomé and Avenida Baja Navarra, the road out of Pamplona towards France via Irun.

Despite being in the very heart of the city, the park’s design and size make it a real haven of peace. Probably the best view of the beautiful profile of the Cathedral is to be had from here, one that has been immortalised on many canvases of painters from Navarre. The long promenade is a belvedere that offers excellent views across the river Arga to the hills beyond. The medieval bridge of La Magdalena and the market gardens of the same name can be seen below the river, and even horses and livestock.

Look in the opposite direction, into the park, and you will find a great variety of elements in the purest Romantic style: pergolas, pools, steps, fountains, bushes, small sculptures, large trees, water spouts and benches are scattered among the greenness of the park.

The Media Luna contains an original selection of plants and up to 43 species of trees, among them a giant sequoia, which is not, however, the tallest in Pamplona. There are two others, one in the gardens of the Palacio de Navarra (the regional government building) and the other in the old Agricultural Laboratory in the Historic Quarter of the city. All three have been declared national monuments.

Another emblematic corner that will no doubt attract the visitor’s attention is the monument to the renowned violinist from Pamplona, Pablo Sarasate. It was erected in 1959 in circular form and is surrounded by park benches. Very close by is a pleasant bar/cafeteria with a terrace that is open every day from 11 a.m. and is an excellent place for a quick snack and a drink.

It is perhaps not surprising that we should hear music here. Different events are organised here quite frequently, such as the jazz concerts that take place during the evenings in early summer.

At the end of the Media Luna, where it joins the Avenida de la Baja Navarra, stands a monument to Sancho ?el Mayor’, King of Pamplona (1004-1035). To the side, a bas-relief figure of Juan Huarte de San Juan, a Navarrese doctor and philosopher from the 17th century. To the right is an elegant mansion built in 1955, popularly known in the city as the ?Chalet de Izu’, which is now the centre for business/professional meetings and the seat of a number of professional associations. It also has a stylish restaurant that is open to the public.

TACONERA GARDENS

Locality: Pamplona
Address: Jardines Calle del Bosquecillo
Zone: The Pamplona Basin

The Taconera Gardens are the oldest and most beautiful and emblematic park in Pamplona. Its 90,000 square meters are located near the old city walls very close to the Old Quarter of the city, and the park has a marked romantic and Versaillesque character. It combines trees and flowers with a wide range of sculptures to offer the visitor a series of different itineraries. If anything characterises this delightful place it is the mini-zoo in the moat of the walls that contains deer, ducks, pheasants, swans, peacocks ? in a state of semi-freedom. The Taconera also contains gates in the style of triumphal arches, a monument to the famous Navarrese tenor Julián Gayarre, sculptures such as the well-loved ?Mariblanca’, or the pointed arches of the monument to King Theobald II. The Viennese Café is a popular place for artists and students or simply to meet friends. The Taconera already appeared in city plans of 1719 as a park. It is always open to the public and its northernmost entrance, the Portal de San Nicolás (1666), which is a Baroque recreation of a triumphal arch, is located in calle del Bosquecillo. Another entrance is through the Portal de La Taconera, next to the Antoniutti gardens.

La Taconera will captivate you in a matter of minutes. Walk over to the viewpoint on calle Navas de Tolosa to see the mini zoo in the moat of the old city walls. Deer, rabbits, bucks, ducks, pheasants, swans, goats, peacocks and other ducks abound. Altogether about thirty different species live in a space that is decorated with a natural-sized and lit Nativity at Christmas. At the other end of the moat, on the north side, it another viewpoint to watch the animals through five beautiful pointed arches.

The park has very varied vegetation, with ancient and exotic trees. It is surrounded by part of the old city walls of Pamplona, and also conserves ornamental elements that encourage the visitor to stop along the way: the Monument to the world-famous tenor Julián Gayarre (1844-1890) in the central section. Very nearby, another parterre pays tribute to the musician from Burlada Hilarión Eslava (1807-1878). Hidden among the trees is the statue of the ?Mariblanca’ (white virgin) from the end of the 18th century. This is one of the best-loved images in the city and represents and allegory of Abundance or Beneficence.

On its northern side the park has a viewpoint that offers excellent views of some neighbourhoods of Pamplona and the mountains behind. The old Portal de Santa Engracia (now called Portal Nuevo) is another point where you can enter or leave the park.

The youngsters also have a play area with a pretty drinking water fountain nearby. The Viennese café, previously used as a cycle hire hut, is a coquettish octagonal cafeteria under the shadow of a twisted Japanese acacia tree where you can enjoy a wide range of coffees, teas and tasty cakes.

Larraina park is the natural continuation of La Taconera and has excellent views over the river Arga. The Antoniutti gardens are also nearby, with many trees and good shade that has a skating rink, a children’s’ play area and a skateboarding track

YAMAGUCHI PARK

Locality: Pamplona
Address: Jardines Calle La Rioja (Cerca de la Clínica Universitaria)
Zone: The Pamplona Basin

Pamplona is splashed with beautiful patches of green, but there is none quite like Yamaguchi Park: it covers 85,000 square metres in one of the most modern areas of the city. The park was designed in 1997 in an oriental style by Japanese landscape gardeners, which is why it contains all the features typical of a garden imported from the land of the Rising Sun, with all its refinement, delicacy and attention to detail. The park is a symbol of the twinning of the cities of Pamplona and Yamaguchi, which is very close to Hiroshima. The cities were twinned in 1980 in memory of the evangelising visit to Japan in the 16th century by St. Francis Xavier, patron saint of Navarre. Plants and different species of trees, some indigenous, coexist with ornamental features like the suhama (beach), azumaya (little hut on the lake), yatsubashi and ishibasi (bridges), taki (waterfall) or the géiser on the lake, a jet of water that reaches 20 metres in height. For a delight to the senses, stroll through this Japanese homage to the four seasons. Yamaguchi Park, situated very close to a busy hotel and restaurant/bars area, is an exceptional green space full of particular details. The visitor will inescapably travel the route to the Orient and then glimpse one end of the Planetarium, with its dome, the largest in the world; here, meetings, exhibitions and popular science displays for every type of audience take place on a daily basis.

At the eastern end of the park is an avant-garde arrangement of buildings, a 1994 work by the Catalan architect, Oriol Bohigas, with residential buildings arranged in a U shape, fountains and covered squares that occupy half of calle La Rioja. A high concentration of cinemas and outdoor catering establishments, which entice the general public to relax and enjoy themselves, are a true reflection of a city that is growing in leaps and bounds in terms of its quality of life and modernity.

Built on the site of a former factory, this traditional Japanese garden, the origins of which date back to the 7th century, invite meditation. Its symbolism recalls the celebration of the four seasons, transports the visitor to the Tea Ceremony, a tradition dating from the 16th century, and turns the garden into a spiritual meeting place, far from the madding crowd.

This Japanese garden is at the very heart of Yamaguchi Park. It extends across an area of some 4,000 square metres and is shaped by a landscaped area surrounding an ornamental lake, with features typical of oriental culture that are connected by pedestrian walkways. The rest of it comprises 500 tons of stone, 400 trees and 600 plants.

Start your visit at the western end of the park, next to the Planetarium. Lean against the railing, lower your gaze and look in front of you: above the lake, a ceramic plaque on wooden logs, a work by Concha Civetí, the Pamplona sculptress, is a symbol of the city twinning and serves as a guide to the panorama that opens up in front of the beholder. Turn your attention to the left. Here is the suhama, or beach of sand and stone. In front of you lies the yatsubashi, a wooden footbridge that joins two paths. Continue turning your eyes to the right. They will fix on the ishibasi, the stone bridge that represents the pathways of life, and the taki or waterfall, the course of which symbolises the idea that everything is in a state of flux and change. Next, the azumaya, or little wooden hut built on stilts above the lake, is without doubt a privileged place from which to contemplate the garden in its entirety. Go there and you will see something that needs no prior warning:

Proud and powerful, a géiser, or water fountain, over 20 metres high, shoots up above the centre of the lake, provided the wind is not roused.

OTHER LOCATIONS IN NAVARRE

The Orgi Forest

Locality: LIZASO (31799)
Address: Carretera Entre la carretera de Lizaso y Gerendiain
Zone: The Pyrenees
Protected figure: Área Natural Recreativa
Telephones: 948305300

Orgi is an oak forest that stretches out in the south of the Valley of Ultzama, 25 kilometres from Pamplona. It is a millennial forest of eighty hectares, the sole remaining evidence of the oak woods that used to proliferate in the damp northern valleys of Navarre. A Natural Recreation Zone has been created in Orgi so that the conservation of the forest can be rationalised with public use. It has a large car park at the entrance, a picnicking zone and an information office where the walks start from. The tracks are completely flat and can be covered on foot and are even suitable for wheelchair use. At Orgi you will find a forest undergoing a complete process of natural regeneration, a comfortable walk and in the surrounding area a range of delicious locally-produced specialities such as curds, cheeses and liqueurs. The Orgi forest lies 20 kilometres to the north of Pamplona between Gerendiain and Lizaso. One of its peculiarities is the presence of a type of oak that can live in the waterlogged soils at the bottom of the valley, the Quercus robur, or English oak, many of which are a hundred and even two hundred years old.

The forest is demarcated into three zones: the welcome area is known as Arigartzeta, the rambling zone is Tomaszelaieta and the conservation area is Muñagorri, which cannot be accessed by the general public as it is in the process of natural regeneration.

The ?Welcome Zone’ at Arigartzeta is where you enter the oak woods. It has a car park, picnic areas, toilets and an information office which is open every day in summer and at weekends and public holidays the rest of the year. During the week there is a guided tour service.

The rambling zone of Tomaszelaieta covers 37.5 hectares. You can take a short walk (the Maze) of just 300 metres; there is another 1,400-metre-long walk (the Track) which can be extended by another of 700 (the Trail). All three are fully signposted.

The Maze takes you into the forest along a sinuous track which ends up at the “fallen tree”, a giant oak felled many years ago by the wind and now covered by other vegetation. If you have time and are interested, continue along the Track and the narrow Trail. You will find some areas specially equipped with wooden benches, handrails and even a small hut for bird-watching, so it is worth bringing binoculars. There is still a salt pond as a vestige of the sea that covered this area between 180 and 200 million years ago.

On your walk you will discover American and red oaks coexisting alongside smaller trees such as holly, maple and elm, and a rich undergrowth of natural grassland, ivy, heather and juniper. If you walk in silence, you may be able to hear the birds singing, or perceive the rapid movements of small amphibians, or even make out the occasional bat.

Out of the forest, there are other longer walking itineraries such as the one known as Orgi (8.4 kilometres long), Amati (10.5 kilometres) and Gurbil (18 kilometres), which is the ideal distance for cycling.

Orgi is one of the natural scenarios in which the Cultur programme is held. It consists of a series of performances and events held every summer in Navarre, which in this particular case involves small orchestras that perform classical music in the middle of the forest.

In the immediate area, it is well worth visiting the towns of Lizaso and Gerendiain, with their picturesque farmhouses, or the Museum-House of Honey in Eltso/Gerendiain, the Ulzama Golf Club or the Lizaso Golf Centre, where you can play Pitch & Putt.

Caves of Ikaburu

Locality: Urdazubi/Urdax
Zone: The Pyrenees
Telephone: 948599241

Hidden beneath the green meadows of the slopes of north-western Navarre, in the Pyrenean town of Urdazubi/Urdax, just a few kilometres from the coast and the French border, lie the Caves of Ikaburu, a grotto that originated some 14,000 years ago as a result of the erosion of the river Urtxuma that runs through it. A guided tour through its galleries will open up a whole universe of stalactites and stalagmites as well as evoking the memories of people of legend: the soldiers and smugglers who used to occupy the caves in earlier times. The entrance to the Caves of Ikaburu lies a few kilometres from the Bay of Biscay and just a few minutes from the French border at Dantxarinea, in the district of Leorlas de Urdazubi/Urdax. The grotto was discovered by a shepherd in 1808 but it originated way back in time, some 14,000 years ago, as a result of the waters of the river Urtxuma perforating the limestone rock and giving rise to the beautiful formations of stalactites and stalagmites that we can see today.

The flint remains found in the caves reveal that they were inhabited by Prehistoric Man. Many centuries later, they served as a hideout for smugglers and as a refuge during the War of Independence and the Carlist conflicts. Indeed, local legends say they are the abode of the lamia, mythological beings that are half fish and half woman.

If you would like to explore the caves you can follow a 30-minute organised route with steps and lighting where you will discover the infinite shapes that the water has contoured with its drips across the centuries, in the form of the “Reception Room”, the “Room of the Three Kings” and the “Column Room”. Take a look at the sparkles that reveal the presence of magnesium in the rocks and let yourself be lulled by the sound of the river Urtxuma as it flows through the galleries.

An easy track with just a slight incline links the Caves of Ikaburu with those of Zugarramurdi and Sara, these last caves being on the other side of the border. The journey, around 12 kilometres there and back, is signposted by little painted horses and runs peacefully through meadows and woods.

As well as the caves, this small municipality of almost 376 inhabitants houses the Monastery of St. Salvador of Urdax, a 12th-century monastery that was a pilgrims’ hospital on the Baztan section of the Way to Santiago. A guided tour will show you the cloister of this ancient building and you can also visit a traditional mill. A fountain in honour of the writer Axular, a native of this locality, has been built near the mill.

The Caves of Zugarramurdi

Locality: ZUGARRAMURDI (31710)
Zone: The Pyrenees
Telephones: 948599060 – 948599170 – 948599305

In the western Pyrenees, past Baztan and just a short distance from the French border, lies Zugarramurdi, the village of witches, where fantasy and reality blend to treat the imagination with the opportunity to take a thrilling trip back in time. The caves, which are close to the village of Zugarramurdi, can be visited from 9.00 am until nightfall. There are no stalagmites or stalactites and no cave paintings have been discovered on their walls, yet they have an almost extraordinary attraction: since the seventeenth century they were allegedly the venue for akelarres, covens which men and women (the witches and wizards of the time) used to escape from everyday routine with frenzied feasts, dancing around bonfires and holding orgies in the moonlight. In addition to the track that skirts the caves, there are some delightful walks linking the caves of Urdazubi/Urdax and Sara. Zugarramurdi lies to the north of Navarre on the western side of the Pyrenees, almost on the border with France and coloured by an endless palette of greens that contrasts with its whitewashed houses. A stroll along the streets of the tiny village of Zugarramurdi, of just 230 inhabitants, is perfect for setting the scene before heading off to the caves. On leaving the village, just 400 metres further on you will come across a natural setting of breathtaking beauty: the Olabidea stream, which originated in Hell according to its Basque name “Infernuko erreka”, This stream has excavated a natural tunnel 120 metres long with walls of up to 12 metres high and two raised galleries.

On entering the caves, a staircase takes you down to the main cavern, a wide natural tunnel of over a hundred metres that runs along the stream known as the “Infernuko erreka”, with the “Sorgin Leze” galleries in the upper part.

There are no stalactites, stalagmites or cave paintings in the caves, but their unique appeal lies in their vastness and the legends that surround them; it is easy to imagine the akelarres -covens led by the local witches- that used to be held here. The legends of witches and wizards, pagan rituals and banquets presided over by the devil will accompany you on your journey through the grottoes known as “Sorgin Leze” (the witches’ cave) at the more open section of the tunnel and “Akelarre Leze” (the coven cave) at the narrower part.

Imagine those feasts of yesteryear, the dances round the bonfires, the rituals that went on, or were imagined by an Inquisition that, in the Middle Ages, ruthlessly punished the inhabitants of Zugarramurdi. In 1610, the Inquisition indicted 31 inhabitants of the region -most of them women- accused of witchcraft, whose names appear on a panel at the entrance to the cave. Some of them survived after confessing their guilt and begging for mercy, but 13 of them were unable to survive the torture to which they were subjected in Logroño prison and died. The six remaining people were burnt alive in the square in Logroño before 30,000 spectators.

A celebration relives the festive use for which the caves were used each year. It takes place on 18th August, the last day of the village’s festivities, which is when the traditional zikiro jate takes place, a multitudinous meal attended by 800 people at which lamb roasted on stakes is served.

There is an eight-kilometre track connecting the caves of Zugarramurdi with those of Urdazubi/Urdax and Sara (on the other side of the border); the trail is signposted with a blue horse and is fairly straightforward.

Alloz Reservoir

Locality: Alloz
Address: Entre Yerri y Guesálaz
Zone: The Central Zone

Do you like windsurfing or sailing? Do you fancy a refreshing plunge in the tranquil waters of a reservoir? Or how about a leisurely stroll around it? If you’re anywhere near to Estella it’s easy, because just fifteen minutes from the town lies the Alloz reservoir, the second largest in Navarre after Yesa. It is a fantastic place for watersports, swimming or simply relaxing. Twelve kilometres to the north-east of Estella, between the towns of Yerri and Guesálaz, lies the Alloz reservoir, a body of water fed by the river Salado and surrounded by Portuguese oaks, pasturelands, thickets and pines.

Built in 1930, it covers an area of 930 hectares and can hold 84 Hm3 of water. In spring and summer it becomes the ideal spot for learning to sail or windsurf and is a popular place for surfers when there’s no wind on the nearby Bay of Biscay, as there are frequently force three or four winds at the Alloz reservoir which makes it ideal for windsurfing.

It’s also the perfect spot for fishing enthusiasts who tend to go down to the tail end of the reservoir where they mainly catch trout, barbel and carp.

At the edge of the reservoir, in Lerate, is the Aritzaleku campsite, which organises reservoir-based activities. In summer you can hire a variety of craft such as canoes, windsurf boards and small sailing boats.

If you are not keen on nautical pastimes and prefer rambling, there is a walk around the reservoir. You can also take a tour of the valleys of Yerri and Guesálaz, characterised by gentle hills and little villages dedicated to farming and livestock breeding. The autumn is the best time to visit these valleys, when the mature ferns and vineyards paint the landscape in a riot of colour.

Another option is to take the track to Iturgoyen and climb up to the chapel of the Holy Trinity from where there is a wonderful view. You can also visit nearby Estella to discover a city brimming with history and artistic treasures, or the monastery of Iranzu in the midst of a beautiful natural setting.

The Arbayún Gorge

Locality: Domeño
Address: Paraje Entre Lumbier y el Romanzano
Zone: The Pyrenees
Protected figure: Reserva Natural y Zona de Especial Protección de las Aves

The Arbayún Gorge, between Lumbier and Romanzado, is the longest and most stunning of all the gorges in Navarre. The river Salazar that flows through it has carved out the rock, giving rise to a 5.6-kilometre-long canyon with stunning vertical walls that reach a height of 300 metres at some points. A wide variety of vegetation grows inside the gorge and on its rocky outcrops there is a huge colony of griffon vultures, which you can see flying if you lean out over Arbayún from the viewpoint at Iso. This immense natural wealth has led to the Arbayún Gorge being declared a Nature Reserve and also a Special Protection Area for Birds. The river Salazar flows down from the Pyrenees and crosses the Leyre mountain range in the Central Zone of Navarre, giving rise to the Arbayún Gorge. This long, deep gorge is the queen of the gorges in the region both for its length (almost six kilometres) and its stunning vertical rock faces which reach a height of 300 metres in places.

There is no better place to admire the gorge than from the viewpoint at Iso, a projecting terrace over the waters of the river Salazar off the NA-178 road that goes from Lumbier to Ezcároz. Step out onto this privileged balcony and let yourself be amazed by the spectacular beauty and tranquillity that permeate this natural spot.

The river describes three curves from North to South and then meanders off towards the west and south-west. In its first section, the walls reach down to the river bed, while once inside the gorge they rest on a sloping bank. Vegetation grows unbridled in the depths, occasionally emerging from the rock itself. On the sunny sides, kermes oaks, gall oaks and juniper grow, and in the shady areas there are beech, oak, pine and ash trees. In autumn, the gorge is decked in a thousand colours with every tone ranging from green to ochre including explosive reds and oranges.

If you look up towards the rocky outcrops you will almost certainly spot the nests of vultures or other birds of prey. The colony of griffon vultures has grown so much in the last few years that it is common to see them flying over the area.

The interior of the Arbayún gorge is fairly inaccessible although there are tracks that offer some magnificent views. One of the most well-known is the canaleta (culvert) route, a signposted track 3.2 kilometres long that starts from an esplanade 500 metres away from the village of Usún. The track runs along the edge of the nature reserve, passing by the chapel of San Pedro, and its most spectacular section runs along the old water channel to Lumbier, a narrow culvert that runs dozens of metres high along the left-hand wall. This place is not for people who suffer from vertigo!

At the Gorge Nature Interpretation Centre in Lumbier you will find details on this and other hiking paths as well as information on the flora, fauna and culture of the area. Take advantage of this opportunity to visit the nearby Lumbier Gorge, which can be visited along a straightforward path that crosses and runs along the tracks of the long-gone Irati train, the first electric train in Spain.

The gorge of Lumbier

Locality: Lumbier
Zone: The Pyrenees
Protected figure: Reserva Natural

Colonies of griffon vultures flying over the cliffs, sheer rock faces where birds nest, a river with clean and fresh water that cuts through the narrow and changeable rocks, the remains of a bridge that (according to legend) was built with the help of the Devil, two tunnels through which the first electric train in Spain (the Irati) used to run. If you visit the Foz de Lumbier you can enjoy wildlife and harsh landscapes in this narrow gorge carved out by the river Irati that reveals a singular landscape of scarped rocks, the home of great birds of prey. Access to this Nature Reserve is from a nearby car park, and signposted footpaths take you through a narrow pass that brings you to the first foothills of the Pyrenees in the east of Navarre. From the nearby town of Lumbier you reach a car park located just a few metres from the entry to the gorge. The Foz de Lumbier is carved out of the limestone rock by the river Irati at the western end of the Leyre range of mountains, at the foot of the Navarrese Pyrenees. It is one of the most spectacular gorges in Navarre, a landscape created over millions of years by the waters of the river Irati, which have left their mark on this sanctuary of nature day by day. The gorge was declared a Nature Reserve in 1987.

Lumbier is a narrow and small gorge, just 1,300 metres long, but of spectacular beauty. Its vertical walls reach a maximum height of 150 metres and large birds of prey live in the cracks and ledges, with species such as griffon vultures whose flights will accompany you in your visit to the gorge. It is also a refuge for foxes, boar, badgers and owls, and is strewn with gall and kermes oaks and bushes such as thyme, lavender and gorse that hang from the cracks, vegetation that is transformed into woods of poplars, willows and ash trees at the entry and exit of the gorge.

In contrast to many other canyons, you can walk through Lumbier along an easy track that runs along the bottom of the cliffs for 2.6 kilometres. The route was created for the old Irati train (the first electric train in Spain) that linked Pamplona with Sangüesa between 1911 and 1955.

The signposted path runs along the river and crosses the rock through two tunnels (206 and 160 metres long) that do not have artificial light. Towards the end of the path the route goes around the rock and reaches the remains of the Puente del Diablo (Devil’s Bridge), which was built in the 16th century with a raised arch 15 metres above the river. It was destroyed by the French in 1812 during the War of Independence, and owes its name to a legend that says that its builder asked the devil for help to finish it.

There is a second route (5.5 kilometres long) that starts from the same point. Signposted with green and white marks and wooden posts, the route goes around the gorge and returns to the car park through it. It includes a difference in height of 175 metres and offers excellent views of the surrounding area.

If you would like to get to know the ecosystem of the area a little better, there is a Gorge Nature Interpretation Centre in Lumbier which contains a series of exhibitions, audiovisuals and simulations. It also includes information on the nearby gorge of Arbayún. Take time out to visit the towns of Lumbier and Sangüesa and the remains of a second-century Roman villa in the nearby village of Liédena. If you prefer to continue enjoying the elegant flight of the griffon vultures, stop off at the viewpoint on the NA-178 road a short distance from the junction with the road to Jaca. From here you can see a feeding place of the vultures and the spectacle of the enormous birds suspended in the air before they swoop down on their prey.

Bardenas Reales Natural Park

Address: Comunidad de Bardenas Reales de Navarra
Web: www.bardenasreales.es
Protected figure: Parque Natural; Reserva de la Biosfera
Email: info@bardenasreales.es

The Bardenas Reales Natural Park, a unique semi-desert landscape sprawls across 42,500 hectares in south-eastern Navarre. Behind its barren and inhospitable appearance lie tremendous natural treasures; for example, it encompasses three Nature Reserves. Water, limestone and clay have sculpted spectacular shapes which take you into a world that is almost moon-like in appearance that is fashioned by gullies, smooth plateaux and solitary outcrops. The capricious shapes and the unsettling aridity of the area have inspired painters and writers, and it was once the hideout of bandits and other legendary characters. It has also been the scene of television commercials and films such as Airbag, Mutant Action, Pride and Passion and The World is Not Enough. Indeed, a unique destination for visiting on foot, horseback or by bicycle.

The Bardenas Reales Natural Park is a pseudo-steppe landscape sculpted over millions of years, which, just 70 kilometres away from the peaks of the Pyrenees, has flora and fauna more appropriate to an African desert than the north of the Iberian Peninsula. In the remote past it was even inhabited by crocodiles and turtles.

Although there are different accesses to the park -some of which are only authorised for bicycles- there are two routes most commonly used by motor vehicles: from the north, taking the earth track that leaves the Carcastillo-Figarol road (el Paso) and joins the earth track that runs alongside the shooting range (at 22 km), and from the west by the tarmacked track that goes from the petrol station on the outskirts of Arguedas that joins the above track that goes round the military firing range.

There are three distinct zones in the natural park which are, from north to south: El Plano, croplands characterised by very gentle slopes; the Bardena Blanca, the most photographed zone, defined by its eroded crags, dry gullies and steppe-like appearance – in its lower part is a Firing Range which explains the military aircraft flights; and the Bardena Negra, where the land darkens, giving way to the only Aleppo pinewoods in the area, accompanied by thicket.

These lands include three Nature Reserves: the Vedado de Eguaras, an oasis to the north of the area where the ruins of the Castle of Peñaflor still stand; the Rincón del Bu (Bardena Blanca), occupying 460 hectares, in whose niches the eagle owl breeds; and the Nature Reserve of Caídas de la Negra (Bardena Negra), which covers 1,926 hectares and has altitude drops of 270 metres. Eagles, vultures, owls, great bustards, foxes, mountain cats, genets, amphibians and reptiles will accompany you in this vast territory of scrubland, sisal thickets, salt marshes and reed beds, where extreme temperatures are recorded.

On your journey, don’t miss the opportunity to go up to some exceptional viewpoints, such as the Alto de Aguilares, from where you will get the best view of the entire Bardena Blanca, and the Balcón de Pilatos (?Pontius Pilate’s Balcony’), an exceptional observatory of birds of prey. You can also visit some memorable spots such as Castildetierra and Pisquerra (Bardena Blanca) with their spectacular rock formations.

The Bardenas offer more than 700 kilometres of paths, tracks and gullies that can be followed by hiking and cycling enthusiasts. As you travel through the Bardenas please observe the regulations, do not go off the signposted tracks, do not disturb the animals and do not collect plants or minerals. Try to visit the park between June and September and avoid going when it is raining. If you can withstand the heat well and decide to go in the summer, make sure you have enough drinking water, cover your head and protect yourself from the sun.

If your visit coincides with 18 September, don’t miss the opportunity to go to the “Sanmiguelada”, the day when thousands of sheep from the Pyrenean valleys make their way to this vast extension along El Paso to graze during the winter. To do this, follow the Cañada Real (royal livestock trail) of the Roncaleses which links up the pastures of the Roncal Valley with the Bardenas. You can also cross the Bardenas by the Cañada Real that goes from the town of Tauste in Aragon to the Urbasa-Andia mountain range in north-western Navarre.

No-one can remain indifferent to the Bardenas Reales, this incredibly unusual, varied and natural setting which was once the stamping ground of famous bandits such as Sanchicorrota. Legend tells us that his horse had its horseshoes put on backwards in order to confuse his pursuers. You, too, can escape to this unique corner of the world and get to know the Ribera region of Navarre.

Close to the Bardenas is the Senda Viva theme park on the road from Arguedas to the chapel of the Virgin Mary of Yugo. Another option for visitors is Tudela, the capital of the Ribera region, where you can enjoy delicious cuisine based on fresh local market garden produce, featuring traditional dishes such as vegetable stew, crisp lettuce hearts, asparagus and artichokes and meats such as lamb shank, all washed down with the acclaimed wines of Navarre.

The Sierra of Urbasa

Web: www.parquedeurbasa.es

Together with the Sierra of Andía, the Sierra of Urbasa, which strides Atlantic and Mediterranean Navarre, makes up an extensive Natural Park in the west of the region. Meadows and leafy beech woods alternate in the idyllic landscape of this great plateau, whose southern edge falls sharply down to the Amezkoa valley to form the impressive natural viewpoint over the cirque of the source of the river Urederra. Visit the range’s information centres, recreation areas and easy signposted paths to get to know its beautiful woods and rock outcrops, megaliths and the life that hunters, shepherds, timber merchants and charcoal burners have led in this area for centuries.

This surprising plateau located in the west of Navarre was already inhabited 100,000 years ago; the dolmens, menhirs and cromlechs that are scattered over the area bear witness to this. In later centuries its natural resources have been exploited for hunting, timber and charcoal.

Impressive beech woods cover 70% of the territory, together with other species such as yew, juniper and pine trees. On the ‘rasos’, flat land located at around 1.000 metres above sea level, the woods give way to pastures dotted with heather and hawthorns where it is quite common to see mares and sheep grazing; the latter’s milk is used to make the delicious Idiazábal cheese. In the largest of them all, el Raso, you will come across a 17th century noble house that is now deserted.

Do not look for rivers in Urbasa; the limy soil allows water to filter and run underground through the area’s numerous potholes and sinks, which makes it a great place for caving enthusiasts.

If you take the NA-718 road from Olazti/Olazagutía to Estella you cross the mountain range and you can park your car at several points. It is advisable to visit the Information Centre at the north entrance, where you can find details of the landscape, environment and culture of the Natural Park. In the south, the ‘Borda de Severino’ – the word ‘borda’ is used to describe all the huts used by shepherds and livestock -, now converted into a Nature Interpretation Centre, recalls the pastoral way of life. There is a reproduction of a carbonera (charcoal mound) inside.

If your preference is walking, there are several signposted routes:

1. The ‘route of the fountains’, a circular path that starts at the Borda de Severino and runs gently for 4.5 kilometres past sources/fountains and beautiful sites.
2. The ?route of the shepherds’, 7.6 kilometres long, is an easy path that crosses woods and rasos to give you an insight into the livestock rearing activity of Urbasa. It starts at the Information Centre and ends at the Borda de Severino. 3. The 3.8-kilometre-long ?mountaineers’ route’, which provides access to the highest cliff in the north of the range (1,113 m.). The route is of medium difficulty, starting at the Information Centre and crossing the old Camino de la sal (salt route), which was used to transport salt from the nearby village of Salinas de Ore.

The sierra also has several viewpoints where you can see for miles, such as the Balcón de Pilates (Pilate’s Balcony) at the top of the cirque of the source of the river Urederra (access from the NA-718), the Mirador de Lizarraga (access from the N-120) and the panoramic table installed next to the Palacio de Urbasa (access by the NA-718).

In the surrounding area, do not miss a visit to the monumental city of Estella, crossed by the centuries-old Pilgrim’s Way to Santiago, or the interesting monasteries of Iranzu and Irache.

Bertiz Natural Park

Locality: Oieregi
Zone: The Pyrenees
Web: www.parquedebertiz.es
Protected figure: Parque Natural
Telephone: 948592421

Would you like to spend a day in a quiet wood, walk along paths with yourself as a guide, come across squirrels along the way, hear the blackbird sing and the clickety-clack of the woodpecker? Do you like the idea of walking through a beautiful botanical garden and discovering such singular species as gingkos from China, sequoias from California, chestnut trees from the Balkans and water lilies? Would you like to discover noble houses surrounded by woods, see charcoal burning piles and feel Nature with all your senses? All this is possible in the Señorío de Bertiz Natural Park, 2,040 hectares of exuberant vegetation that includes a botanical garden with 126 different species, a Nature Interpretation Centre and fine country houses. Bertiz provides an enjoyable day out in a totally natural setting in a pleasant and quiet green corner of the Pyrenees of Navarre. Located 49 kilometres north of Pamplona on the banks of the river Bidasoa, the Señorío de Bertiz estate belongs to the municipality of Oieregi and ?border’ with the municipality of Etxalar to the north, and to the east with the Baztan valley. Although its origins go back to the end of the 14th century, its present splendour is due to the last Lord of Bertiz, Pedro Ciga, who donated the estate to the Government of Navarre in 1949. The regional government declared it a Natural Park shortly after. On entering the Señorío de Bertiz the visitor discovers nature in both elegant and exuberant forms. It is a fantastic example of an Atlantic forest, sheltered by a damp and frost-free microclimate.

A Botanical Garden It has 126 different bush and tree species stands on the banks of the river Bidasoa at the entry to the park. It was designed by a French gardener in 1847, and Pedro Ciga extended it by combining local species with others from far-off places. A visit to the garden becomes an exotic journey through such curious species as the bald cypress, Lebanon cedars, the gingko from China, araucarias from Tierra del Fuego, sequoias from California, camellias, azaleas and bamboos. A network of paths takes you through small caves and ponds with water lilies, and also past a viewpoint over the river Bidasoa.

Near the viewpoint is the Palace of Ciga, now converted into an exhibition hall, and a Nature Interpretation Centre that provides information on the park’s ecosystem and the surrounding area. The charcoal burning pile, where the traditional making of charcoal is demonstrated, and the lime kiln are other points of interest in the garden.

Once you are outside the garden, after crossing a large open space with a picnic area and swings, you will come to a tourist information centre and sculptures on display in the open air. Go inside the wood, which is the largest area in the park (1,869 hectares), Its altitude ranges between 110 and 842 metres above sea level and entry is free of charge.

There is an 11-kilometre track that can be travelled on foot or horseback or by bicycle. It takes you to the Palace of Aizkolegi, a modernist structure from the early 20th century that remains closed but takes us back to the era of splendour of the estate a century ago. This spot offers excellent views over the park and the surrounding valleys. Oaks accompany you on the lower slopes of the track but as it goes up beech trees and ferns are more commonly found. You will probably see squirrels in the trees and, on days when there are fewer visitors, the song of the woodpecker can be heard. If you prefer, you can take one of the three ?self-guided’ routes that pass through different sections of the Bertiz forest.

Any season of the year is good for a visit to the park, although if you choose the summer you will see its vegetation in its full splendour, as well as delightful shade. If you visit Bertiz on June 5th you will be able to take part in events that commemorate Environment Day such as a handicrafts and food fair. In mid-autumn the intense green of the summer gives way to ochre and red, and this is a good time to observe the migratory movements of several birds.

If you would like to round off the visit with a good meal there are several restaurants in the area offering the specialities of this area of the Pyrenees, for example, txuri ta beltz (lamb black sausage), perretxikos and hongos beltza (two varieties of wild mushrooms) and cuajada (junket) for dessert. In November many restaurants serve game dishes that are accompanied by fresh local produce.

The Park of Bertiz is also a good starting point for excursions through the Baztan valley to see the magnificent palaces and noble houses of the area, such as those at Arraiotz, Elbete, Elizondo and Irurita, all built between the 15th and 16th centuries with the red Baztan stone.

Regata del Bidasoa and Malerreka

The Regata del Bidasoa (Bidasoa valley and surrounding area) includes the territory crossed by the river that gives it its name and finally flows out into the Bay of Biscay. The river Bidasoa, characterised by its cold water and fast currents, is a favourite with fishermen thanks to its trout and salmon. Of especial interest are the Jornadas de Caza (hunting days), in which a large number of restaurants offer tasty game dishes during the month of November.

There are some picturesque villages in the valley and the surrounding area, among them Etxalar, which is well-known for its palomeras (pigeon hunting posts). In Malerreka, in the southernmost part of the valley, you will find a beautiful and peaceful place, the reservoirs of Leurza. Basically, the Regata de Bidasoa is an area in which Nature is the main protagonist. The Regata del Bidasoa is located right in the north of Navarre to the west of the Atlantic Pyrenees.

The river Bidasoa runs through it from south to north. This trout and salmon river is short and fast-flowing. Its source is at Erraztu and as far as Oronoz-Mugaire it is called the river Baztán. As it flows northwards it picks up water from other rivers and streams, which are abundant in this area of the Pyrenees. After leaving Navarre, it forms the border between Guipúzcoa (on the Spanish side) and France for ten kilometres. It finally flows out into the Bay of Biscay between Fuenterrabia/Hondarribia and Hendaye.

Valleys and villages

There are several picturesque villages along the river Bidasoa, characterised by their large caseríos (houses) and a deep green landscape that is home to leafy woods of pine, beech and chestnut trees.

If you start at the northern end, at Endarlaza, (the last place in Navarre before the river enters the Basque Autonomous Community) and head south you come to the valley of Cinco Villas, consisting of Bera/Vera de Bidasoa, Lesaka, Igantzi, Etxalar and Arantza.

The first stop on the way is Bera/Vera de Bidasoa. The border with France is close by, through the passes of Ibardin and Lizuniaga, places that are worth a visit for their excellent views. It has some interesting noble buildings such as Casa Itzea, owned by the Baroja family, where the writer and historian Julio Caro Baroja produced much of his work.

6.5 kilometres south of Bera/Vera is Lesaka, a town that stands out for its fine houses, caseríos and the 17th-century parish church of San Martín de Tours, which has Renaissance and Baroque characteristics.

The next stop is Igantzi, the smallest of the five towns. Before entering, stop at the chapel of San Juan Bautista; its interior is a cave that is part of the Nature Reserve of San Juan Xar. Popular belief attributes curative powers to the water that springs forth here.

The Reserve is full of ash, oak, lime and hazelnut trees. It is also the only territory in the Iberian Peninsula where the white beech tree species is found. You will observe small cavities in the ground here, separated by sharp rock edges of great geological interest.

Continuing on south from Igantzi, you reach Arantza, an ancient village that used to belong to the Crown. The main attractions here are the Gothic-Renaissance church of the Assumption and a number of civil buildings such as the tower of Araníbar and the houses of Apezenea and Xabatenera.

Eight kilometres east of Lesaka is Etxalar, with its well-kept caseríos, the steles in the atrium of the church of the Assumption and its palomeras, which attract many hunting fans in October to see the pasa de la paloma (literally, ‘passing of the pigeon’).

Malerreka

To the south of the Bidasoa is the area known as Malerreka. This territory, bathed by the rivers Ezcurra and Ezpelura, is characterised by its oak and beech woods and several winding streams. The villages in Malerreka are: Beintza-Labaien, Doneztebe/Santesteban, Elgorriaga, Ituren, Zubieta, Urrotz, Oiz, Donamaría, Sunbilla, Ezkurra, Eratsun and Saldias.

The reservoirs of Leurtza are located here; they were created in 1920 on the stream of the same name to generate electricity. It is a beautiful spot with facilities for visitors in the form of a car park and picnic areas.

As for local traditions, one of the most ancestral carnivals in Navarre is held in Ituren and Zubieta. The zantpantzar (dressed in a leather and wool costume with colourful hats and carrying cowbells) frighten away evil spirits and bless and purify the earth.
Activities in Nature

The Vía Verde del Bidasoa, a ‘green route’ (as its name suggests) that follows a disused railway line, is an excellent way to enjoy the exuberant beauty of the Bidasoa valley. It is a flat route that is surfaced in several sections and covers the 27.7 kilometres between Endarlaza and Doneztebe/Santesteban. The route goes through 8 tunnels (which have lighting), although the rest of the route is not signposted.

The river Bidasoa is also excellent for trout and salmon fishing. Although the salmon season usually runs from mid-March to mid-July, it ends automatically when the 50th fish is caught.

Gastronomy

The common trout and the very scarce salmon are two of the delicacies of this area. Meat, especially beef, is also highly appreciated here. We should not forget game such as boar, hare or pigeon; the last-named is the ?star’ of the hunting season that takes place every year in Etxalar in October and November. Finally, another distinguishing feature of the area is its Idiazabal designation of origin cheese, which is strong, greasy and has a slightly spicy taste.

The Irati Forest

The Irati Forest : Ochagavía
Zone: The Pyrenees
Web: www.irati.org
Protected figure: Diversas figuras protegidas como Reservas Naturales, Reserva Integral o ZEPAs.
Email: info@irati.org

The Irati Forest is the second largest and best preserved beech and fir forest in Europe, an immense green mantle of some 17,000 hectares that is still in an almost unspoiled state. Standing among the western Pyrenees of Navarre, the Irati Forest is accessed from the picturesque villages of Ochagavía and Orbaitzeta and is a natural treasure in which you can find the protected areas of Mendilatz and Tristuibartea and the Lizardoia Integral Reserve. Sit down in the heart of the forest and enjoy communing with nature; let yourself be enveloped in a silence broken only by the wild rushing of water between beeches and firs. Admire the crystalline currents of the river Irati that turn turquoise in the Irabia reservoir and listen out for the elusive sounds of the fauna and stroll across the soft blanket of grass that covers the Irati Forest. The scent of the woods will impregnate itself in your skin. The Irati Forest, which is accessed on the western side from Orbaizeta and from the east via Ochagavía, is a habitat for countless birds such as goldcrests, chaffinches, robins, black woodpeckers and white-backed woodpeckers, as well as other species such as foxes, wild boar, roe deer and stags. You may come across some of them if you take a quiet walk through the middle of the forest and around its protected areas: the nature reserves of Mendilatz and Tristuibartea and the Lizardoia Integral Reserve.

Mendilatz and Lizardoia can be circled along a hiking trail but it is advisable to get information first from one of the information booths at the two entrances to the Irati Forest, which can be reached by car. The booths stand next to the chapel of the Virgen de las Nieves (Virgin of the Snows), if you come from Ochagavía, and in Arrazola if you come from Orbaitzeta. They are open between Easter and November.

The Mendilatz Nature Reserve stands on the mountain of the same name in Orbaitzeta and covers 119 hectares at an altitude of 1,100 metres. There are abundant chasms and crevices here as well as beech, ash, wild cherry, hazelnut, maple, lime and other trees, and you can encircle it on a signposted hiking trail of 14 kilometres which leaves from the old munitions factory in Orbaitzeta and is relatively easy-going.

The Tristuibartea Nature Reserve lies on the northern slopes of Mount Petxuberro in Villanueva de Aezkoa. Standing at an altitude of 940 metres, the reserve covers 55 hectares of well-developed oak and beech woods.

The Lizardoia Integral Reserve is one of three integral reserves in Navarre and lies on the mountain of La Cuestión at an altitude ranging between 850 and 1,125 metres. The 65 hectares of Lizardoia make up the most interesting part of the Irati Forest in environmental terms, with swathes of virgin beech and fir woods that are a refuge for dozens of animal species. Here you can find giant trees more than 40 metres high, a natural paradise for birds and particularly woodpeckers. In the area around the reserve, at the tail end of the Irabia reservoir, there is a hiking trail which is open to the general public known as the Contrasario; it is a fairly easy walk of just over 7 kilometres.

Whatever time of year you visit, the Irati Forest provides a natural spectacle that arouses every sense. In autumn, the wood turns into a blanket of ochre leaves which crunch delightfully with every step, but if you stop walking for a moment, you might hear the bellowing of rutting stags. In winter, the snow blankets the forest in immaculate white, outlining the footprints of animals and transforming the trees into sculptural shapes. The awakening of spring is accompanied by birdsong, swift torrents of water and the scent of strawberries. Search them out and savour them. In summer, lose yourself in the heart of the wood to enjoy the wonderful sensation of freshness.

Some unusual and beautiful buildings encircle the Forest: the Orbaitzeta Munitions Factory, the chapel of the Virgin of the Snows, the chapel of Muskilda, the villages in the Salazar Valley such as Ochagavía, Ezcároz and Esparza, and those in the Aezkoa Valley: Orbaitzeta, Villanueva and Garralda.

If you are a fan of nature-based sports you can enjoy hiking, mountain biking, snow-shoeing, cross-country skiing or simply walking along the nine kilometres on the edge of the Irabia reservoir. Among the most famous peaks in the area is the Ori (2,021 metres) from where you get an incredible view over the green blanket of Irati and the soaring peaks of the Pyrenees. The ascent on foot from the Larrau pass takes around 45 minutes.

Given that the Irati Forest is a wetzone, we recommend taking protective clothing in case of bad weather. And take care on windy, stormy days, because the witches and lamias take advantage of them to promenade the ghost of Lady Juana of Labrit -the Huguenot queen who was poisoned in Paris- and make anyone they find on their travels disappear. Don’t forget, too, that this is where Basajaun, the Lord of the Woods, has his dwelling; he is a tall spirit with long hair and prodigious strength who is even more agile than the deer. If you happen to cross his path do not run away, just obey his orders and he will guide and protect you during your visit to the forest.

The Sierra of Aralar

Locality: Lekunberri
Zone: The Pyrenees

Aralar is a huge mountain range covering 208 square kilometres that stretches across the north-east of Navarre and the south-east of Guipúzcoa province. The Sierra de Aralar, which is accessed from the Valley of Larraun or La Barranca, is a real paradise for hiking enthusiasts where meadows and beech woods combine with the rocky stretches typical of this karstic massif. In Aralar there is time to take a leisurely stroll or make a few short ascents, search for dolmens or the springs of rivers such as the Larraun, listen to legends, visit caves such as Astitz or simply contemplate the panorama that spreads before you from the Sanctuary of St. Michael in Excelsis.

You can reach the Sierra de Aralar from the north from various villages in the Valley of Larraun such as Lekunberri, Iribas and Astitz, and from the south from Uharte-Arakil.

The beautiful woods and meadows in Aralar give the mountain range an extremely high ecological value. Beech, oak and hazelnut trees stand alongside pasturelands across which dairy sheep and horses roam. And although nature is the main protagonist here, stone has also left us a multitude of dolmens scattered across the whole range, beautiful farmhouses such as those at Madotz, Astitz and Baraibar, mills such as the one at Aitzarrateta and chapels such as Santiago de Itsasperri. The most notable monument is the medieval sanctuary of St. Michael of Aralar, an emblematic location where, legend tells us, Teodosio de Goñi vanquished the dragon of Aralar. It also holds one of the most interesting enamelled altarpieces from the Spanish Romanesque period.

If you take the road that starts at Lekunberri and, 12 kilometres further on amid a beech wood, stop at Campas de Albi, you will get a close-up view of the dolmen of the same name. At kilometre 13 you can stop at the car park and take a walk that starts off from the Forestry House; a trail ascends through the beech woods until the path opens up and you reach the Aralar flats. After a 6-kilometre walk, with an ascent of some 300 metres, you will be able to see the peak of Irumugarrieta and find, amongst shepherds’ huts, livestock, beech trees, oaks, bracken and lush green meadows, dolmens scattered across the entire range.

From Iribas, an easy 5-kilometre walk allows the visitor to discover the waters of Aralar that combine with the limey soil at the springs of Ertzilla and Larraun.

Since July 2005, the entrails of the sierra can be discovered thanks to the opening of the cave of Mendukilo at Astitz. Used for centuries as a stable for livestock, it has now been adapted for visitors so they can view the three spectacular galleries, with beautiful stalactites and stalagmites in these galleries of up to 60 metres long and 20 metres wide. The Welcome Hostel of the cave contains an audiovisual room, an exhibition room, a bar and a small souvenir shop.

In winter, when there is heavy snowfall, cross-country skiing tracks also start from the Forestry House. The sierra then becomes a unique and utterly silent spot, where dimensions and space are capriciously transformed until the thaw in spring.

Hikers will also appreciate the trails that cover the Sierra de Aralar, starting from La Sakana and reaching the Sanctuary. From the cement road that links Uharte-Arakil and the Sanctuary you can climb up to St. Michael on foot. The climb is less than one kilometre but it involves an ascent of almost 400 metres, from where you can see dolmens such as Arzabal. From Etxarri Aranatz there is a 15-kilometre “dolmen route” along which you can see the remains of ten dolmens.

Around the Sierra of Aralar you can walk or cycle a few kilometres on the ?Via Verde’ (old railway track) of Plazaola from Lekunberri or Leitza, visit the blacksmith at Betelu or practice nature-related sports.

Aezkoa Valley

Locality: Aribe
Zone: The Pyrenees
Web: www.aezkoa.net

Sheltered by the Pyrenees, the Aezkoa valley is a great green ‘carpet’ covering more than 12,000 hectares of forest and nine municipalities, among them the highest village in Navarre, Abaurrea Alta. It main attraction is the Selva de Irati (Irati forest), one of the biggest beech-spruce woods in Europe.

If Nature stands out for its beauty here, the same goes for its delightful villages, closely linked to livestock rearing and forestry. Another outstanding feature are its hórreos (outdoor granary stores), declared a national ‘Asset of Cultural Interest’.

Wars have left their particular mark on Aezkoa: the ruins of the munitions factory of Orbaitzeta prove that weapons for Carlos III’s army were made here. In the north-east of Navarre lies the Pyrenean valley of Aezkoa. Its singular relief, characterised by a winding mesh of gullies and mountains, means that the area has four of the ten highest villages in the region, Abaurrea Alta (1,035 metres above sea level) being the highest in Navarre. There are fantastic views of the Pyrenees and the surrounding area to be had from here.

Garaioa, Aribe, Garralda, Aria, Hiriberri/Villanueva de Aezkoa, Orbara and Orbaitzeta, Abaurrea Alta and Abaurrea Baja are the villages that make up this valley, which will enchant you through its scenery and buildings.

Near Aribe, the Mirador de Ariztokia offers an excellent view over the deep valley cut out by the river Irati below the dense Robledal (oak wood) of Betelu, one of the most interesting Sessile oak (Quercus petraea) woods in Europe.

The Selva de Irati

Among the main attractions of the Aezkoa valley is the Selva de Irati, one of the biggest beech-spruce forests in Europe. It covers 17,000 hectares to the north of the Aezkoa and Salazar valleys, and has been much appreciated over the years for its beauty and its timber resources. It is the habitat of many bird species such as listed goldcrests and more common chaffinches, robins, etc; also other species such as foxes, boar and roe deer. The deer can be heard in autumn, during the mating season.

There are three protected areas within the Selva de Irati: the Nature Reserves of Mendilatz and Tristuibartea and the Integral Nature Reserve of Lizardoia. The last-named is the area of greatest environmental interest because it conserves large tracts of virgin forest (beech and spruce) and is also home to a range of animal species.

At the north-westerly boundary of the forest stands the Roman tower of Urkulu, built in the 1st century to commemorate the incorporation of Gaul and Hispania into the Roman Empire. Nearby is the megalith complex of Azpegi.

At the north-eastern end of the Selva de Irati stands Mount Ori, the westernmost two-thousand-metre peak in the Pyrenees.

A whole range of sports can be enjoyed here, for example trekking, ice climbing, gorge descents, and Nordic skiing. Thematic routes are also available to get to know the Pyrenean woods and valleys. The Tourist Offices in the area have comprehensive information on these activities.

The munitions factory at Orbaitzeta

From the village of Orbaitzeta a road leads up to the Irabia reservoir in the Selva de Irati. Turning left off the road, you reach the ruins of the old weapons factory that was built in the 18th century to supply the artillery of Carlos III (VI of Navarre). Its location is due to nearby iron ore and lead deposits and an abundant supply of water and wood. The factory was plundered and set on fire several times, and finally closed in 1873. Walk through the ruins and enjoy the surroundings and the image of the river running under a stone arch.

The Irabia reservoir, built in 1921, is hidden in the heart of the forest and is a large lake surrounded by trees. A path runs round the reservoirs as far as the Casas de Irati, to the west of the lake.

The route of the hórreos

Of the 22 hórreos (outdoor granary stores) that are conserved in Navarre, 15 are located in this valley and are declared to be an Asset of Cultural Interest. They have a gable roof without eaves and are rectangular in shape. The walls are of masonry and are built on pyramidal or conical stone pillars rounded off with circular slabs. These rural structures were used to store grain. There are interesting examples of these constructions in Orbaitzeta, Aribe, Aria, Hiriberri/Villanueva de Aezcoa and Garaioa. Aribe also has a beautiful mediaeval bridge over the river Irati.

Do not leave Aezkoa without trying its rich and varied cuisine. Beef, boar or trout, dairy-based desserts, among which are sheep’s cheese and abia (cranberry) jam.

If your visit coincides with the month of May, get to know the romerías (popular pilgrimages) that leave the villages in the valley every weekend to venerate the Virgin Mary of Orreaga/Roncesvalles.

Belagua Valley

Zone: The Pyrenees

The Belagua Valley is the most important ecosystem in the Roncal Valley, with altitudes ranging between 1,100 metres at the Rincón de Belagua and 2,428 metres at the Mesa de los Tres Reyes, the highest peak in Navarre. To the north of the Roncal Valley, at the border between Navarre, France and the province of Huesca, lies the Larra Natural Reserve which houses the most unique and representative of Pyrenean ecosystems and is one of the most impressive karstic morphologies in Europe. You can reach the Belagua Valley by a road that leads to the Piedra de San Martín, at an altitude of over 1,750 metres, where every 13th July the traditional ?Tribute of Three Cows’ is held. All along the way there are crannies, chasms, nature reserves, mountains, ski slopes, gullies, woods, waterfalls, flora and fauna, and the refreshing cool of the Pyrenees.

The highest and most famous peaks in the Navarrese Pyrenees -la Mesa de los Tres Reyes, Ukerdi, Budogia, Txamantxoia, Lakartxela- and other nearby summits such as Anie, Petrechema and Acherito, preside over and enhance this broad valley where humans, animals and forests have lived in perfect harmony for centuries.

Sheep, cattle and horses graze on communal pastures, while the most out-of-the-way corners are home to animals such as bears, chamois, marmots, stoats, partridge, golden eagles, black woodpeckers and bearded vultures, some of which are in danger of extinction. Some parts of this broad valley are protected by law due to their high ecological value.

Take a walk through the nature reserves of Larra and Aztaparreta or the integral reserve of Ukerdi and you will have the opportunity to marvel at the flight of eagles, grouse and griffon vultures, bounding chamois and the amusingly cheeky marmots. You can also enjoy the contrast of black pines against the rocks of Larra, or the shadows of the gigantic firs and beech trees surrounding the Aztaparreta ravine.

Lovers of nature-based sports will find a paradise in Belagua. Apart from mountain climbing – it is the perfect place for starting ascents to peaks of over 2,000 metres- there is a range of sports as appealing as they are varied. With the arrival of the good weather you can traverse the numerous mountain biking tracks, go canyoning or enjoy a unique view of the scenery from a hang-glider. In winter Belagua has more than 22 kilometres of cross-country ski trails, distributed over seven smooth pistes and marked tracks. During this season you can also take a variety of snow-shoe tracks through the idyllic woods.

In Larra, you need to watch out for the numerous potholes. The most well-known is the Piedra de San Martín, one of the highest in Europe with a vertical drop of more than 1,200 metres which has made it one of the favourite venues for caving enthusiasts. It houses a vast and spectacular cavern, the Sala de la Verna, which is accessed from the French side (Sainte-Engrâce) with guided tours available. The cavern is 160 metres wide, around 200 metres long and at some points more than 160 metres high, with a huge waterfall of more than 80 metres at one end.

After visiting Belagua, do not miss out on the chance to discover the towns in the Roncal valley such as Isaba, Roncal, the birthplace of Julián Gayarre, and Burgui, with its Rafters’ Museum. You can also visit the cheese-making dairies in Burgui, Vidángoz and Uztárroz, where there is also the Cheese and Transhumance Museum.

Valley of Ultzama

Zone: The Pyrenees

Where can you go hiking, lose yourself in thousand-year-old woods, play golf among oak trees, go horse-riding and savour traditional gastronomy? all in the same place?

In an undulating valley whose infinite shades of green give a thousand nuances to its woods and meadows, one where brushstrokes have carefully painted in tiny villages with imposing farmhouses and broad balconies filled with flowers.

This is Ultzama, a peaceful corner of Navarre that will seduce you with its scenery and its magnificent cuisine, in which meats and wild mushrooms are the stars. The Valley of Ultzama, whose capital is Larraintzar, lies in the north-west of Navarre just 25 kilometres from Pamplona. It is an idyllic valley of green meadows, surrounded by oak and beech woods and dotted with tiny, impeccably-kept villages. It is well worth touring them to admire the huge stone houses with their gabled roofs, their semicircular arches doorways, their huge eaves and broad balconies stretching along the entire façade.

All the towns and villages are worth visiting, but if time is of the essence, from Eltso-Gerendiain and Guelbenzu you will get some stunning views of the Valley of Ultzama, and from Basaburua views of the Malloas and Aralar mountain ranges.

At a more leisurely pace, you should not miss the sight of the balconied houses of Zenotz and Eltso-Gerendiain, or take a stroll through the centres of Eltzaburu and Arraitz. Enjoy the square facing towards the church in the hamlet de Ilarregi, the view from the Calle de Iraitzoz and the beautiful composition formed by the houses lining the sides of a stream in Auza. Just outside this town, going towards Eltzaburu, you will find a track that leads to Yeguada de la Ultzama, 120 hectares dedicated to breeding thoroughbred racehorses.

The valley contains some interesting artistic features such as the church of Urritzola-Galain, the Marian carvings of Belate in Alkotz and the baptismal fonts in Ilarregi and Larraintzar.

The Orgi forest

Anyone who visits Ultzama should not leave without taking a relaxing stroll through the Orgi forest, to the south of the valley next to the road from Lizaso to Eltso-Gerendiain. This thousand-year-old wood of 80 hectares is the only remaining example of the primitive oak forests that once covered the humid valleys in the north of Navarre.

Due to its great diversity it has been declared a Natural Recreational Zone. It is home to examples of pedunculated oak trees hundreds of years old and a dense undergrowth of holly, elderberry and hawthorn as well as a variety of birds and wildlife.

Visitors can choose from three different nature walks with informative panels covering 2.2 kilometres for enjoying these lovely natural surroundings.

Sporting activities

A walk through the Orgi forest can be complemented by another three trails that link the oak wood to the rest of the valley: Orgi (8.4 km for walkers); Amati (10.5 km for walkers); and Gurbil (18 km for both walkers and cyclists).

As well as hiking, you can take horse-riding excursions in Auza or take advantage of the Ultzama Golf Club at Eltso-Gerendiain. The club was designed by architect Javier Arana, the most renowned golf course designer in Spain of his time. The main feature of the course is the oak trees that line the fairways, putting players’ skill to the test!

The Belate Pass

The north of the valley is defined by the Belate Pass, on the border with the Baztán valley. Belate has been a major connecting point since time immemorial. This was where the old medieval road that linked Pamplona with Bayonne passed, and it is one of the paths on the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago. This is borne out by the remains of the old road used by the pilgrims, the 12th-century ruins of the chapel of Santiago and the restored monastery/hospital of Santa María de Belate, on which documental evidence exists from 1165. From Belate some of the most attractive trails in the mountains of Navarre lead off, towards the peaks of Gartzaga, Saioa and Adi.

Festivals and gastronomy in Ultzama

On the first Sunday in June, a pilgrimage to the chapel of Santa Lucía takes place in Iraitzoz, which stands on the peak of Mount Arañotz, when the townsfolk disperse over the fields to prepare lunch and spend a tranquil afternoon.

To finish off your visit to the valley, what better treat than to sample some of its famed meat dishes, its renowned wild mushrooms, its home-made honeys and the typical dish of the region: cuajada, junket made from sheep’s milk onto which a red-hot stone is placed to give a unique toasted flavour. This delicious dessert can be served in a kaiku, a wooden receptacle that is also used for milking and cooking the milk.

The Roncal Valley

Locality: Roncal
Zone: The Pyrenees
Web: www.vallederoncal.es

The Roncal Valley, situated high in the Pyrenees, on the border between France and the Spanish province of Huesca, has a striking character and is alive with ancient traditions, delicious gastronomy and nature in its purest form. Traced from north to south by the River Esca, seven villages of acclaimed beauty make up this valley, the main resources of which still continue to be forestry and livestock, complemented significantly in recent decades by tourism. Stroll slowly along the charming, cobbled back streets of the villages with their well-tended country houses, pass through its woods and savour the different smells that distinguish the seasons, immerse yourself in its unique traditions, such as the Tributo de las Tres Vacas (Homage of the Three Cows) or the Día del la Almadía (Day of the Raft), and do not forget to taste the sheep’s cheese with its Denominación de Origen (designation of origin), migas de pastor (shepherd’s breadcrumbs) or grilled lamb chops.

The Roncal Valley, situated on the border between France and the Spanish province of Huesca, comprises the villages of Burgui, Vidángoz, Garde, Roncal, Urzainqui, Isaba and Uztárroz. The River Esca tracks the course of the valley from north to south; its waters have created impressive natural landscape features, like the Foz de Burgui, which were crossed for centuries by the almadieros, inhabitants of the valley, who each spring transported the wood obtained from the woods during the rest of the year downriver. This ancient craft disappeared in the middle of the last century with the construction of the Yesa Reservoir, but it is commemorated every year in Burgui, on the Saturday closest to 1st May, the Day of the Raft, which has been declared a fiesta of national tourist interest. A variety of water craft descend the river and this culminates in the spectacular plunge over the weir near the medieval bridge.

Near Burgui, Vidángoz is small, charming village, located off the main road. Every year, at the end of August, it commemorates the celebrated witches’ akelarres (covens) in the festivity in honour of its patron saint. In former times, these characters were common to various towns in the valley and significant recorded documentation still exists on many other legends that have been passed down from father to son.

At the geographical centre of the valley sits the town of Roncal, with its cobbled streets and large stone houses. The streets lead up to its most symbolic building, St. Stephen’s Church, from where there is a splendid view of the town. Very close to the church is the museum and house of Julián Gayarre, the tenor, while at the end of main road is the wildlife information centre and tourist office, which brings local flora and fauna to life through audiovisual displays. The town’s cemetery is home to the fine Gayarre mausoleum.

Isaba is the busiest town in the valley and also boasts a Tourist Office. The town enjoys an elevated position, where the Belagua and Uztárroz rivers come together to make up the River Esca. Its steep-roofed houses carry on up to St. Cipriano Church, a 16th century building that resembles a fortress.

Uztárroz seals the northern end of the valley; its precipitous streets lead to St. Engracia Church, which houses an organ considered to be the best Baroque example of its kind in Navarre.

The Roncal Valley has been able to retain its traditions faithfully, and its people wear the superb local costume with pride every time the occasion deserves it. One such occasion is the Tributo de las Tres Vacas (Homage of the Three Cows), a fiesta that brings it together with the neighbouring Baretous Valley in France and dates from the 14th century. Every 13th July thousands of people gather round the Piedra de San Martín (St. Martin’s Stone) to re-enact the centuries-old ritual, which takes place at an altitude of over 1,750 metres above sea level.

Do not leave the valley without tasting its renowned Roncal cheese, hand-made from sheep’s milk, which was the first in Spain to boast the Denominación de Origen (Designation of Origin), and do not miss out on the local migas de pastor (shepherd’s breadcrumbs) or grilled lamb chops.

Roncal offers an endless number of activities for sports lovers such as hill walking, cliff descent, cross-country skiing, climbing, potholing, etc. You can either do these activities on your own or through one of the specialist companies in the area.

Salazar Valley

Zone: The Pyrenees

The Salazar valley lies in the heart of the Navarrese Pyrenees and holds a whole range of scenes in store for the visitor. Small villages with well-kept houses line the river Salazar up as far as Ochagavía, the most picturesque place in the valley. High peaks overlook the Selva de Irati, a large forest that offers a great variety of sensations in each season. There are endless paths and ancestral traditions, which the people of the valley have carefully preserved, complete a quick look at this valley, which invites you to explore it at your leisure. The Salazar valley lies in north-east Navarre. It is a Pyrenean valley of large forests of Scots pine and beech trees, with a few oak groves marking the transition between both of these species. Its climate ranges from sub-Mediterranean to sub-Atlantic, which leads to great temperature changes and varying patterns of rainfall.

The villages of the Salazar valley

The villages that grew up along the river Salazar have noble houses of stone and wood, many of them with coats of arms, and flat tile hipped or gable roofs at a steep angle to allow the winter snow to fall off.

Ochagavía is one of the most typical and picturesque villages in the Navarrese Pyrenees, located at the confluence of the Zatoia and Anduña rivers. Much of its charm is due to its setting, with its mediaeval bridge, narrow stone streets, well-kept caseríos (large houses) on both sides of the river and its imposing church-fortress, which contains an interesting Renaissance altarpiece dedicated to San Juan (St John).

From Ochagavía, a country road follows the course of the river Zatoia up to the Sierra de Abodi, a 20-kilometre-long mountains range that reaches an average height of 1,500 metres. At the end of the road you come to the chapel of ‘Virgin of the Snows’ in the heart of the Selva de Irati. This vast beech and spruce forest, one of the biggest in Europe, offers excellent views of some of the peaks of the Pyrenees such as Mount Ori, the westernmost “2,000-metre peak” in the Pyrenees.

If you leave Ochagavía following the river Salazar you will pass Ezcároz, a village of real mountain atmosphere which is also the seat of the Valley Council. Heading west on the N-140 road you reach Jaurrieta, the highest village in the valley. It was reconstructed after a fire in 1880. Continuing on from Ezcároz towards the south you come to Oronz and Esparza, where the Pyrenean buildings conserve Gothic elements and many have coats of arms on their façades. The trout-filled river Salazar runs parallel to the road that takes you to Ibilcieta, Sarriés and Güesa. You can turn off here towards Igal, where the atrium of the Romanesque church of St Vincent contains some discoid steles (funeral stones). In Izal you will find the only Pyrenean hórreo (outdoor granary store) in the valley. Opposite is the nobly village of Iciz, with Gothic buildings, Gallués and finally, Uscarrés, whose Romanesque church has some remains of Gothic paintings and a curious sagrario (side chapel).

Routes to follow:

The Sierra de Abodi, apart from its magnificent views from the Alto de Tapla, is a good starting point for trekking. To the left and right of the road you will see two information panels about the signposted paths. There are six local walks in the heart of the Selva de Irati. They are all along paths between trees (mountain bikes are not allowed). There are other forest tracks for cyclists, with very small inclines.

You can also enjoy trekking following the stages of the GR11 route, either starting from Orbaitzeta up to the Casas de Irati and Ochagavía, or vice versa.

If you like climbing mountains we propose the Pico de Ori (2,021 m.) It takes 1 hour to get there from the tunnel of Larrau or Abodi (1,533 m.) and 1 and a half hours from the ski station of Pikatua (in Abodi).

Local festivities

There are many of these and they take place throughout the year. We would highlight the one on September 8th to the chapel of Muskilda, in which dancers from Ochagavía interpret centuries-old dances. The group is made up of 8 danzantes dressed in a red suit, etxarpa, coloured tapes, a hat, bells and castanets. They dance paloteados (dances with sticks) and a jota to the Virgin of Muskilda in front of the chapel Another popular pilgrimage with a typical folk dance is held on August 15th in honour of the Virgen de la Blanca (Virgin of the Snows) in Jaurrieta, where the girls from the village dance the Axuri Beltza dressed in typical Salazar valley costume.

Gastronomy

There is a wide variety of dishes in the area to tempt you. Among them are migas, originally a shepherd’s dish based on dry bread cut into small piece and fried in a frying pan with pork fat and bits of spicy sausage. Also try ternera (veal), cordero lechal (suckling lamb) and trucha (trout) ?á la Navarra’ (fried with ham). Particularly delicious are the area’s wild mushrooms, perretxikos in spring and hongos in autumn.

There is also a great variety of dishes based on game (deer, roe deer, boar, pigeon?). To round off the menu, home-made desserts based on dairy products and pacharán, a liqueur (made from sloe berries macerated in anisette) that is an ideal ?digestif’ after a good meal.

The Baztan Valley

Zone: The Pyrenees
Web: www.baztan.es

Ensconced in the Atlantic Pyrenees, the Baztán valley is a land of noblemen and indianos who returned from their exploits overseas with huge fortunes and left their mark in dozens of mansion houses. It is a route for pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela, who use this alternative route across an intensely green, incredibly peaceful landscape, replete with gentle hills, wide meadows and mysterious woods. It is a landscape that seduces with its carefully preserved villages of robust farmhouses and its traditions, such as the dances to the sound of the txistu (a type of flute) and the kettle-drum, and its pelota competitions. The Baztán Valley stretches across northern Navarre between the mountain passes of Belate and Otsondo. It is the largest municipality in Navarre, covering an area of 364 square kilometres and encompassing fifteen towns: Oronoz-Mugaire, Arraioz, Irurita, Almandoz, Berroeta, Aniz, Ziga, Lekaroz, Gartzain, Elbetea, Arizkun, Azpilikueta, Erratzu, Amaiur and Elizondo, the main town in the valley.

It is a valley with a wealth of traditions, a deeply-rooted folklore and an architectural heritage that combines stately mansions and sturdy farmhouses whose features are easily identifiable: rectangular stone buildings, though often whitewashed with lime, a gently sloping gabled roof, flying eaves at the front and windows surrounded by pinkish stone from the Almandotz quarries. Many of these farmhouses have been turned into cosy rural accommodation where you can enjoy the customs and welcoming character of the people of Baztán.

Scenery and views in the Baztán Valley

In these lands, the crests of the Navarrese Pyrenees lean down towards the sea, gradually becoming gentler to offer a landscape of rolling green hills, wide meadows and streams flanked by oaks and chestnuts.

The best view of the region is from the Baztán lookout in the municipality of Ziga, from where you can admire the temperate, humid valley below, with the towns of Irurita, Lekarotz, Elizondo and Gartzain. Farmhouses and huts are dotted across the slopes and you can see crop fields and the outline drawn by the 1000-metre peaks that frame this delightful panorama.

From the Otsondo pass, at an altitude of 600 metres, you can enjoy a panoramic view towards the coast. Taking a small road on the right-hand side, go up to the peak of Gorramendi, which has equally stunning views.

One of the most gratifying sporting activities in the Baztán Valley is hiking. Among a host of options is the Amaiur-Berroeta route, which runs through Arizkun, Elbetea, Elizondo, Lekaroz, Irurita, Zigaurre and Ziga (a total of 19.4 kilometres), or the Elizondo-Peña Alba route that passes through Beartzun, Peña Alba and Kilinkarri in a 20-kilometre walk before returning to Elizondo. If you would like to see a waterfall, a path that starts from the district of Gorostapolo in Erratzu takes you to a spectacular waterfall in a setting of luxuriant vegetation. Although the path is not particularly well signposted, it is difficult to miss it.

Stone and museums

The mark of history is evident in every corner of Baztán. Inhabited since pre-history, the valley still preserves dolmens in Izpegi, megaliths in Erratzu-Aldudes and buildings associated with the Baztán route of the Pilgrims’ Way to Compostela, such as the chapel of Santiago in Azpilikueta and the pilgrims’ hospice in Elizondo.

The border conflicts of the Middle Ages have left numerous fortress-towers and armouries behind. The most notable of these, due to their unique characteristics, are: Casa Jaureguizar in Arraioz, the palace-fortress of the Ursúa in Arizkun, two palaces used as armouries in Elbete, the Jarola and the Ascoa houses, and the Arizkunenea (or Governors’) palace in Elizondo. All of these are private property except Arizkunenea, which is now a cultural centre.

You will also find dozens of houses of the indianos, emigrants who came back from the Americas with their fortunes and built enormous mansions in their home towns, or commissioned the construction of churches and convents. The echo of those journeys and how people used to live in Baztán centuries ago is perfectly captured in the Jorge Oteiza Ethnographic Museum in the Puriosenea mansion in Elizondo. In Arizkun you can visit the Gorrienea Museum-House and the Sculpture Park of the sculptor Xabier Santxotena.

Religious art in Baztán is notable for its monumental nature and for some extremely valuable works, such as the early Herrerian style of the church of San Lorenzo in Ziga, dating from the 16th century.

Traditions and gastronomy in the Baztán Valley

Baztán also has its own ancestral customs, which materialise in the general use of the Basque language, the alboka and the txalaparta musical instruments, and in dances to the sound of the txistu and the kettle-drum. Festivals are associated with the occasions when the people of the valley used to get together, such as livestock fairs, carnivals -some of which, like the one in Arizkun, go back centuries- pelota competitions, and the Festival of the Valley, knows as the ?Baztandarren Biltzarra’, which is held in July.

If you want to buy a souvenir, it won’t be difficult to find kaikus (a receptacle for keeping milk and making junket made from boxwood), or xisteras (implements with which to play cesta-punta, a type of pelota). Also, if you go to Elizondo don’t miss the opportunity to buy ?urrakin egina’, a delicious chocolate with hazelnuts made by the town’s patisseries.

Around the Baztán valley

To the north of the Baztán valley, 22 kilometres from Elizondo, are the Caves of Urdax and the famous Zugarramurdi caves where witches used to celebrate covens (akelarres). To the south of the valley, 10 kilometres from Elizondo, is the Bertiz Natural Park, a lush beech wood with a Nature Interpretation Centre and a botanical garden surrounding the residence of the Bertiz family.

The Plazaola “Green Route”

Locality: LEKUNBERRI (31870)
Address: Estacion de ferrocarril Estación de tren de Lekunberri
Zone: The Pyrenees
Telephones: 948507204 – 948507205

The Plazaola Green Route has reclaimed several kilometres of the railway line used by the first train to connect Pamplona with San Sebastian, which ran between 1914 and 1953. The local Tourist Information Office is to be found in the renovated station of Lekunberri, a town situated 34 kilometres north of Pamplona. Do not forget to visit the little carriage that, from the platform, will transport you to the golden age of the Plazaola, through beautifully written texts in the Spanish and Basque languages. The sections of the route most frequented by tourists start from the station: the 2 kilometre walk that leads to Mugiro and the 5 kilometre route that stops just short of Uitzi. These 7 kilometres of the Green Way can be travelled on foot, by bicycle or on horseback, with gentle slopes and a landscape as green as it is varied. The track comes to an end at the entrance to the 2.6 kilometre Uitzi tunnel, pending its restoration. On the other side, 12 kilometres on the outskirts of Leitza have been reclaimed, with 14 short tunnels that extend as far as the province of Guipúzcoa, where the route continues to Andoáin. The Plazaola Green Route gives visitors the opportunity to get to know the beautiful countryside of the Larraun and Leitzaran valleys. Inaugurated in 2000, it connects the town of Mugiro in Navarre with Andoain in Guipúzcoa, following the now disappeared Plazaola railway line. The total distance covered by this railway was 84 kilometres (56 km in Navarre and the rest in Guipúzcoa) and had two stations in Pamplona and several others along the length of its route.

The present course of the Green Route runs for 43 kilometres through woods and meadows, 21 kilometres in Navarre and 22 in Guipúzcoa.

Although the Green Route starts close to the dam at Mugiro, it is accessible from Lekunberri. The railway station for this town was refurbished in 1998 and serves as home to the Plazaola Tourist Association and the local Tourist Office. There is a craft shop on the ground floor and on the first floor there is a projection room in which you can see an exhibition on rural sports.

The 2 kilometres that separate the station from the Mugiro dam form a short track that runs next to the Larraun river. At the northern end it gradually ascends between trees, under low bridges, and is interrupted by two short tunnels. It is recommended to carry a torch, even though the longest tunnel (Bartolo) is lit. If one is travelling by bike, for the short distance for which the Green Route joins the motorway, the cyclist can emulate the passengers in the last century who travelled at 10 kilometres per hour. Now, but soot-free, you can let yourself be caressed by the gentle breeze whilst glimpsing the peaks of the mountains known as the Malloas.

This stretch finishes in front of Uitzi station. A few metres further on is the entrance to the Uitzi tunnel, which, at 2,700 metres, was for many years the longest in Spain. Given that it has still not been possible to undertake its restoration, it is not recommended to use it. There is an alternative 4-kilometer-long road that descends sharply to end at the other entrance to the tunnel.

From Leitza you can take a 5-kilometre walk in the direction of Uitzi or one of 7 kilometres that takes you to Guipúzcoa. If you keep the church of Leitza on your left, the Iturrizarrea spring leads you to the southern part of the Green Route. In front of us lies a gentle slope, lovely scenery and short, well-lit tunnels. If you have chosen to walk in the direction of San Sebastian, you start from the old station at Leitza and, after 5 kilometres of the Navarre section, the Green Way continues for another 21 kilometres to Andoáin, gradually descending all the time.

Besides being able to enjoy nature, the Green Route allows the visitor to become acquainted with places like Lekunberri, the centre for local services, with its handsome large houses and the Gothic church of San Juan Bautista. Of particular interest are visits to the sanctuary of San Miguel de Aralar, the caves of Astitz, the acanthus bushes of Larraun and Ertzilla, in Iribas, or the ironworks of Betelu. In Leitza, home of rural sports, the huge town hall and the church with its porticos stand out particularly. Leitzalarrea is very close by, an exceptional forest with 37 distinct species of trees.

Green Route of Tarazonica

Locality: Tudela
Zone: La Ribera

The vías verdes (green routes) are paths along old railway lines and provide a different way of seeing, feeling and enjoying the landscape and culture of a region. The ?Vía Verde del Tarazonica’, ideal for both walkers and cyclists, starts in the monumental city of Tudela (south of Navarre) and runs for 22 kilometres through gentle and pleasant landscape. The route takes us through the market gardens along the banks of the river Ebro as far as imposing Mount Moncayo in Aragon. This mountain’s 2,315-metre-high peak overlooks the plain of the Ebro and watches as we approach the interesting town of Tarazona at the end of the route. In La Ribera, in the south of Navarre, the Vía Verde del Tarazonica runs along the old railway line that used to link Tudela (Navarre) with Tarazona (Aragon). The route, which is quite gentle, has a good surface and is well signposted for both walkers and cyclists. Along the route you can enjoy a gently rolling landscape running through the area of the river Queiles, cereal fields and the foothills of Mount Moncayo.

In 1885 a narrow-gauge train started a service between Tudela and Tarazona. It was so slow it earned itself the nickname of “Escachamatas” (bush breaker) In 1953 the gauge was widened to provide a better service but the line finally closed in 1972 after a few years of poor results.

Tudela – Murchante (Km. 0 – km. 6.1)

The route starts in the railway station of Tudela. Just before leaving the city it crosses a square where there is a fine steam locomotive on display. In the initial section of the route you will soon come into contact with the landscape of market gardens that fill the valleys of the rivers Queiles and Ebro.

At kilometre point 3.3 a track appears; this was the route followed by the Tarazonica when it was a narrow-gauge railway. There is a small rest area here and a curious monument (the “Escachamatas”) made from discarded railway equipment. After going over the new footbridge over the road to Ablitas, the route crosses the Canal de Lodosa. On the other side, there is a long straight that gives a good view of majestic Mount Moncayo. After passing under the motorway, the route takes you to the old station of Murchante, an ideal place for a rest.

Murchante – Cascante (Km. 6.1 – km. 10)

At kilometre 7 the route passes through the ruins of the ancient settlement of Urzante. Soon after (from kilometre 8) there is a gentle ascent to Cascante, an old Roman settlement presided over by the chapel of the Virgen del Romero. There is also a rest area here in the old railway station.

Cascante – Tulebras (Km. 9.8 – km. 11.9)

The Vía Verde continues on towards Tulebras. In this short section almond trees and market gardens accompany the traveller to the monastery of Tulebras (13th-14th century), the first Cistercian convent in Spain. After a visit to the convent, enjoy the recreation area on the banks of the river Queiles.

Tulebras – Novillas – Malón (Km. 9.8 – km. 15)

In this section the landscape gets a bit steeper. The path reaches a point from where you can see the caserío of Malón and it ends in the old castle, a watchtower over the plain of the Queiles. We are now in Aragon. There are two stations in Malón, one narrow-gauge and the other wide-gauge; a family still lives in the second, and there are some old railway instruments conserved there.

Malón – Vierlas – Tarazona (Km. 15 – km. 22)

The route now follows steeper sections. Just before kilometre 16 you will find a grove with a rest area. The last stage of the route runs through a landscape of fruit trees, full of blossom in spring. The next (and last) stop is Tarazona, a town with an interesting artistic heritage.